15L 3D Printed Parts Ultrasonic Cleaner With Drain Vavle

The 15L 3D Printed Parts Ultrasonic Cleaner can help you remove extra material on the parts. We have five different function models for different applications. For example, low noise series will be very suitable for laboratory, hospital and dental office because these places will require a quiet environment. If you still have questions about what you need to choose, please feel free to contact our sales team.

Additional information



Ultrasonic Power


Heating Power




Tank size


Unit Size


Single Packing Size



0~30 Minutes Setting

Container Loading

20 GP:480pcs/40 GP:1000pcs

Details About 15L 3D Printed Parts Ultrasonic Cleaner With Drain Vavle

Why You Need Ultrasonic Bath For 3D Printed Parts?

3D printing, also called fused deposition modeling and fused filament fabrication has revolutionized and lowered the cost of traditional molding techniques such as the lost wax process. By using two moldable thermoplastic formulations such as ABS for the part itself and PLA for removable mold supports 3-D printing is capable of quickly producing highly complex configurations.

A key to the efficiency of the process is fast, safe removal of the PLA mold support without risking damage to the ABS part. An ultrasonic cleaner is proven far faster, safer and more effective than water sprays or manual scrubbing.

How To Clean With Ultrasonic Cleaner With Digital Timer

Items needed before cleaning:

  • Nitrile/Neoprene gloves
  • Jewelry ultrasonic cleaner
  • Peopoly UV curing light
  • Solar-powered turntable
  • Isopropyl alcohol
  • Print removal tool
  • Flush cutters
  • Paper towels
  • Plastic sheet

Step 1: Removing your print

Once your 3D print is finished, you’ll need to remove it from the build plate. Unlike FFF 3D printing, you have to be very gently removing every print. Whereas you can use a spatula and a good tap to remove PLA prints, you can’t do the same with your SLA prints. My recommended method is as follows:

  1. Lay out some paper towels or plastic sheet to catch any drips as you’re removing your part.
  2. Put on some nitrile or neoprene gloves to protect your hands
  3. Remove the build plate from the printer, being careful not to bump your print and break off any details.
  4. Use the supplied spatula to lift up either the brim or an edge of the print if there isn’t a brim.
  5. Use the print removal tool to glide under the 3D print, using the lifted edge as your opening to get underneath it.
    1. It should be really easy to slide this under your print. If it’s taking more force than expected, be careful not to slip and cut yourself or damage the print.

Step 2: Cleaning off supports

Some people like removing their supports after everything has cured, but I find it’s more destructive if you wait until then. In my experience, cured supports shatter and have taken off small divots of material where they attached to the print.

  1. Use the flush cutters to snip off the support material
    1. Make sure to be flush with the surface of the print, or as close as you can get.
    2. In some cases, the supports won’t take much effort at all to come off, but with some of the finer details with supports attached, you’ll want to be careful that the force of the snips closing doesn’t take the detail with it.

Step 3: Cleaning the 3D print

No matter how long your print is, there will be some amount of resin on the surface. If you let this harden, it will slightly distort the true shape of the model. In some cases it will harden as drips rather than a full coating and in others it will leave them sticky for a long time, allowing them to attract and stick to any dust and debris.

  1. Get an ultrasonic cleaner from the retailer of your choice.
    1. The biggest thing is making sure that its volume is big enough to fit the parts you will be printing.
  2. Cover your work surface with plastic sheeting or paper towels to collect any drips or spills
    1. Isopropyl alcohol will strip paints, stains, or varnishes, so be careful when handling on these surfaces.
  3. Fill it halfway with isopropyl alcohol
  4. Gently drop your 3D print into the alcohol.
    1. Make sure that there is either enough alcohol to completely cover your part, or intend to do a couple passes to cover all sides.
  5. Turn on the cleaner.
    1. I don’t usually heat the alcohol and have had great results without it.
    2. Normally I turn it on for 3 minutes and that’s enough to feel a significant difference between before and after putting the part in. It doesn’t need to soak for hours, but it couldn’t hurt letting it soak and clean for 10 minutes or so.
  6. Use the basket usually included with the cleaner to lift the part out of the alcohol.
  7. Gently dab the 3D print with paper towels to soak up as much of the isopropyl alcohol as you can.

Step 4: Post-processing the 3D print

Even though cleaning off any uncured resin is a great start, the step that really brings out the quality of your 3D print is the post-curing that’s necessary for SLA prints. A high wavelength UV light has the intensity to cure the entire part, it just takes longer for thicker, more solid parts. People make their own UV lamp, but there are a couple of things you can do to make it work even better.

  1. Get a solar-powered turntable
    1. You don’t need to be too particular about the size of it, but a battery-powered one couldn’t hurt either. All you’re aiming to do is have the 3D print stand on it and rotate.
  2. Find a container to fit the turntable and any 3D prints you may need to cure.
    1. Most turntables, even the smallest you can find, are going to have bases bigger than the 3D prints you would be made using your SLA printer. That will usually be your point of measurement.
    2. The container itself doesn’t really matter, you just need something to bounce the light around. This can be as simple as a paint can, a cardboard box, or like in our case an unused cabinet
  3. If your container is not reflective, line the inside using aluminum tape.
    1. This will help bounce the light around in an attempt to get all sides of the 3D print completely cured.
  4. Mount the UV curing light to the container
    1. There are mounting holes in the bracket of the curing light, so you can use screws and make it permanent or use some adhesive to mount it. In either case, you want it mounted in a position where it can aim directly at the turntable.
  5. Place your part on the turntable and walk away.
    1. For small 3D prints, half an hour is enough time, for others overnight should do the trick. Basically leave it as long as you can afford to.

Brief Introduction Of 15L Ultrasonic Cleaner:

15L ultrasonic cleaner is a helpful cleaning tool for your dirty parts. It has 360W ultrasonic power which can handle the normal cleaning job. Besides we have five different series for you to choose.

  • Digital control ultrasonic cleaner without additional function. (This model is a classic model which was made more than 20 years ago. It has stable quality and power. )
  • Mechanical control ultrasonic cleaner without additional function. (This model is also a classic model which was made more than 20 years ago. The analog control is an easy control way. It has stable quality and power. )
  • Digital control ultrasonic cleaner with degas and double power. (This model is designed for handling heavy cleaning tasks and light cleaning tasks at the same time. You can choose different power according to your cleaning task. The degas function will help improve the cleaning effect.)
  • Digital control ultrasonic cleaner with low noise and power-adjustable. (This model is specially designed for customers who need a low noise environment. It can cut working noise under 60db.)
  • Digital control ultrasonic cleaner with adjustable power. (This model can adjust ultrasonic power from 0 to full power)
  • Digital control ultrasonic cleaner with sweep frequency, degas and power-adjustable. (This model has sweep frequency function which can avoid the hot spot during ultrasonic cleaning)

You might want to know what is degas function and what is sweep frequency function. Please check below:

Degas: Degas function can drive out gas in cleaning liquid which will absorb ultrasonic energy.

Sweep frequency: Sweep frequency technology to ensure uniform levels of ultrasonic activity throughout the fluid, these baths offer high performance giving an accurate and precise ultrasonic process. It can avoid the hot spot on the cleaning object.

Application Of 15L ultrasonic cleaner:

It can be widely used in various industries. Please check the chart below:

IndustryThe cleaning products and materialsClear dirt
Semi-conductorIntegrated circuit, power tube, silicon wafer, diode, lead frame, capillary, tray, etc.Hards, etching oil, polishing wax, dust particles, etc,
Electrical& electronic machineTube parts, cathode ray tube, printed circuit board, quartz parts ,electronic components, telephone switching equipment, speaker components, power meter, LCD glass, core iron parts, computer floppy disk, video parts, head, photo die mask, etcFinger print, powder, cutting oil, stamping oil, iron filings, polishing materials, walnut powder, polishing wax, resin, dust, etc.
Precision machineBearing, sewing machine parts, typewriter, textile, machine, optical mechanical device,  gas valve, watches cameras, metal filterMachine cutting oil, iron filings, polishing powder, fingerprint, oil, grease, dirt, etc
Optical deviceGlasses, lens, prism, optical lens, filter lens, glass device, film, optical fiber, etc.Plastic resin, paraffin, finger printing, etc.
Hardware& machinery partsBearing, gear, ball, metal shaft parts, tools, adjustable valve and cylinder parts, burner, compressors, hydraulic press, gun and ultracentrifuge, city water faucet, etcCutting oil, iron filings, grease, polishing powder, fingerprint and so on.
Medical instrumentMedical instrument, denture, etc.Iron filings., Polishing powder, oil, stamping oil, dirt, etc.
ElectroplateGalvanized parts, mold, stamping parts, etc.Polishing scrap iron, oil, black iron shell, rust, oxidation shell, scrap iron, polishing powder,  stamping oil, dirt, etc.
Car partsPiston ring, carburetor, flow meter housing, compressor shell, electrical components, etc.Iron filings, polishing powder, oil stamping oil, dirt,  etc.
Chemical fiberChemical or artificial fiber nozzle filter protector chemical fiber texture, etc.The Chemical colloid, glue, and other solid material. dust. Etc.

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