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Hongsonic is the China first onsite installation ultrasonic cleaner factory, covering over 100 countries. You can always rely on our stable team!
1.3L ultrasonic cleaner is a small machine which is suitable for cleaning carburetor, gun parts, circuit board, lab instrument, and other dirty parts you want to clean. We have five different function models for different applications. For example, low noise series will be very suitable for laboratory, hospital and dental office because these places will require a quiet environment. If you still have questions about what you need to choose, please feel free to contact our sales team.
|Single Packing Size||
0~30 Minutes Setting
20 GP:1800pcs/40 GP:3600pcs
Brief Introduction Of 1.3L Ultrasonic Cleaner:
1.3L ultrasonic cleaner is a helpful cleaning tool for your dirty parts. It has 60W ultrasonic power which can handle the normal cleaning job. Besides we have five different series for you to choose.
You might want to know what is degas function and what is sweep frequency function. Please check below:
Degas: Degas function can drive out gas in cleaning liquid which will absorb ultrasonic energy.
Sweep frequency: Sweep frequency technology to ensure uniform levels of ultrasonic activity throughout the fluid, these baths offer high performance giving an accurate and precise ultrasonic process. It can avoid the hot spot on the cleaning object.
Application Of 1.3L ultrasonic cleaner:
It can be widely used in various industries. Please check the chart below:
|Industry||The cleaning products and materials||Clear dirt|
|Semi-conductor||Integrated circuit, power tube, silicon wafer, diode, lead frame, capillary, tray, etc.||Hards, etching oil, polishing wax, dust particles, etc,|
|Electrical& electronic machine||Tube parts, cathode ray tube, printed circuit board, quartz parts ,electronic components, telephone switching equipment, speaker components, power meter, LCD glass, core iron parts, computer floppy disk, video parts, head, photo die mask, etc||Finger print, powder, cutting oil, stamping oil, iron filings, polishing materials, walnut powder, polishing wax, resin, dust, etc.|
|Precision machine||Bearing, sewing machine parts, typewriter, textile, machine, optical mechanical device, gas valve, watches cameras, metal filter||Machine cutting oil, iron filings, polishing powder, fingerprint, oil, grease, dirt, etc|
|Optical device||Glasses, lens, prism, optical lens, filter lens, glass device, film, optical fiber, etc.||Plastic resin, paraffin, finger printing, etc.|
|Hardware& machinery parts||Bearing, gear, ball, metal shaft parts, tools, adjustable valve and cylinder parts, burner, compressors, hydraulic press, gun and ultracentrifuge, city water faucet, etc||Cutting oil, iron filings, grease, polishing powder, fingerprint and so on.|
|Medical instrument||Medical instrument, denture, etc.||Iron filings., Polishing powder, oil, stamping oil, dirt, etc.|
|Electroplate||Galvanized parts, mold, stamping parts, etc.||Polishing scrap iron, oil, black iron shell, rust, oxidation shell, scrap iron, polishing powder, stamping oil, dirt, etc.|
|Car parts||Piston ring, carburetor, flow meter housing, compressor shell, electrical components, etc.||Iron filings, polishing powder, oil stamping oil, dirt, etc.|
|Chemical fiber||Chemical or artificial fiber nozzle filter protector chemical fiber texture, etc.||The Chemical colloid, glue, and other solid material. dust. Etc.|
Ultrasonic Cleaning–How to Get the Best Results?
Reader “Gunamonth” has a great deal of experience with ultrasonic cleaning methods, perfecting his skills on small 17-caliber cases that are very difficult to clean with conventional brushing or tumbling. Here are his tips for getting better, faster results from your ultrasonic cleaning sessions.
Gunamonth’s Ultrasonic Cleaning Tips
I thought it might be helpful to understand some of the principles involved and maybe how to stay out of trouble. I’ve noted that some members have observed that their brass comes out “too clean” or has a rough surface when finished. Here are some ways to avoid those potential problems.
Both metals used in brass cases (copper and zinc) are soluble in acetic acid (vinegar). The salts, copper acetate, and zinc acetate are also soluble. Zinc is more soluble than copper so it dissolves faster. In addition, a galvanic action occurs that causes copper to be dissolved and then redeposited on the surface at the expense of the zinc.
When you clean brass cases in a vinegar solution you change both the chemical and physical properties of the surface of the case. There have been comments about cases being too clean, primers hard to seat, deposits on mandrels, etc. When you change the surface by dissolving some of it and etching it these things will happen. Whether they happen to the point of being a problem becomes the issue.
This doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t use acetic acid or that there is anything wrong with Jason’s approach. Anything used to clean brass chemically is going to have some effect on the surface and it sure beats trying to get the residue out of the flash hole of a 17 Remington with a brush.
I suggest you use one beaker and make it the largest you can fit in your ultrasonic unit. This gives more surface area for the tank water to work on and reduces the attenuation the beaker causes. Also, if you’re in the market for beakers look for the Kimax brand rather than Pyrex. Kimax is about 30% thinner and attenuates the ultrasound less.
How to Achieve Better Results
To minimize the effect on the brass there are some things you can do, most of which attempt to reduce the amount of time the cases spend in the acetic acid:
1. Keep the cleaning solution cool. In other words, don’t use hot water to mix up the vinegar solution. My ultrasonic tank is in the garage which isn’t air-conditioned so when I use it in the summer I empty the tank and fill it with cold water.
2. Clean a rather small number of cases at a time. I do about fifteen 17 Remingtons at a time. They’re as clean as they’re gonna’ get in less than four minutes. I’ve tried as many as 100 at a time and it takes a very long time. Brass is pretty good at absorbing ultrasonic energy and too many cases translate to too little energy per case to clean quickly.
3. Keep the cleaning system “tuned”. The unit I have has a tank that is about 5X10X5 inches. I cut a piece of Plexiglas to cover it and cut a hole the size of a 600ml beaker with a fly cutter. I made a collar for the beaker out of plastic foam that fits very snugly so the beaker can be raised or lowered. By adjusting the level of water in the tank, liquid in the beaker and depth of the beaker in the water it can be “tuned” so that the liquid in the beaker appears to boil while the water in the tank is calm. It only takes a few minutes and has a major effect on how long it takes to get them clean.
4. Don’t let the beaker touch any part of the tank, especially the bottom where the transducer is. The idea is to cause the brass to oscillate, not the container.